关于菲林相机的考虑

Film vs Digital

Film processing is very time consuming and digital will win film one day, try to make film camera adaptable to digital back.

According to 赵嘉， negative has much higher resolution than positive, especially black and white negative!

After testing FM/2, I found that 135 film is not better than 500D and is too time consuming, save time on 135 and use more time on 6x6 or bigger film.

Film is analog, resolution can be much higher than digital. just depends on film grains and scanner, and of course quality of image projected onto the film

I don't like manual focus and film processing.

Instead of buying 4x5 or 8x10 camera, use Canon TS-E lenses to achieve deep depth of field with FF EOS camera, or directly use H4D if have money,much lighter and easier to use than those heavy view cameras.

Now we can use Photoshop to create depth of field and Gigaspan to merge hundreds of photo into one, no need for large format to take landscape photo.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_versus_film_photography

Some amateur authors have performed tests with inconclusive results. R. N. Clark, comparing a professional digital camera with 35 mm film, concluded that "Digital cameras, like the Canon 1D Mark II, show a huge dynamic range compared to either print or slide film, at least for the films compared."[10]

Ken Rockwell reached a different conclusion: "CCDs and the related capture electronics will need about ten times more dynamic range (three stops) than they have today to be able to simulate film's shoulder....This is the biggest image defect in digital cameras today."[11]

Carson Wilson informally compared Kodak Gold 200 film with a Nikon D60 digital camera and concluded that "In this test a high-end consumer digicam fell short of normal consumer color print film in the area of DR."[12]

http://www.leicafanclub.org/institute/misslink.htm

Film size is much times bigger than 35mm but also expensive and labor intensive, every new film equal a new sensor.

Range finder vs SLR

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/rangefinder-vs-slr.htm

My Camera Systems

1981-09 Canon AE-1P (FD)

2000-09: Minolta Alpha 7 (ZA) 

1993-09: Nikon FM2T (F)

1995-09: Canon EOS 50E/500N (EF) 

2001-05: Minolta Alpha 5 (MA) 

1997-02: Olympus Mju 2 (Mju)

2008-09: Canon EOS 5D Mark II (EF-L) 

2004-09: Konica Minolta A200 (IR) 

198x-09: Seagull 4A-103 Texer (TLR)

2008-10: Canon Powershot G10 (G) 

2010-05: Sony Nex 5 (E) 

2010-02: Fujifilm F300EXR (EXR)

2009-04: Canon EOS 500D (EF-S) 

2010-08: Sony Alpha 55V (A) 

2009-03: Panasonic DMC-TS1 (TS)

EOS 500D
Bird flying photos or IR HD Video will be impressive using 500D! If the sensibility is higher, the IR image or video will be even better, so buy 5DII if have money.

Portrait photos from SLR are much better than those from DCs.

E-P1 can be attached to 135mm F/2 and add image stabilization to it, but the speed will be slower than DSLR, why not use 550D instead? Image stabilization can be compensated by higher sensibility of DSLR.

Substitute: Nikon D5000, Sony Nex-5

EOS 50E

Need a fully automatic film SLR with adequate manual controls and robustnes

There are more than 100 millions EF lenses, demand for EF body will rise certainly when EF lenses owners are curious about how the lenses perform on FF film, 50E is the best body to meet their curiosity.

My 50E Date function failed, use digital camera to record time or even location, take the same picture as the film camera take.

Eye conttrol

Simple and beautiful for the back without date option

Battery door will break, need to buy battery grip.

Tougher than 30/30V/33, made in Japn, lighter than EOS 3, newer than EOS 5.

First E-TTL camera.

Some metallic feel but not fully metallic, for fully metallic feel, go for Seagul 4A-103, Linhof and the ultimate metal - Sinar P2.

http://dcphoto.blogspot.com/2007/02/canon.html

以下我嘗試用自己的經驗，評論一下Canon相機的耐用程度，有錯的話，請前輩師兄多加指證。

Canon AE-1：耐用，但菲林撥桿有可能出問題。
Canon AV-1：電池位置有機會因銹蝕而導至不通電，但同樣耐用。
Canon AL-1：膠蓋破裂，電池活門不能正常關閉。
Canon A-1：A系最不耐用的機種，易生Error。
Canon F-1（舊）：非常耐用
Canon New -F1：非常耐用
Canon T90：至今經常容易出現Error，也有曝光不足的情況。電池夾有鬆位。
Canon EOS 1：非常耐用
Canon EOS 1n：非常耐用
Canon EOS 5：最膠的EOS，轉盤設計有問題，更換也會出問題，另外鏡頭釋放按鈕同樣是以膠製，不耐用。
Canon EOS 100：耐用，但ViewFinder易入塵和發霉
Canon EOS 3：黃銅機身密封設計，但密封程度不及EOS 1V，觀景器較1V暗。
Canon EOS 50：出問題的機會低，機身頂板使用金屬，是穩定型的平機。
Canon EOS 30V/33：耐用，對焦系統在低溫下反應遲緩，用舊Sigma鏡要升級支鏡個CPU

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93602847@N00/4321459328/?addedcomment=1#comment72157623837454231

(Method of cleaning 50E view finder)

Yes, I was able to remove the screen, clean it with a blower (did not touch its surface in any way) and also clean the face of the prism facing the focusing screen. The last thing was done using an ear bud with a lint free lens cleaner paper wrapped on it.

The way to remove the screen is to push those tabs with holes, the ones shown in the photo above, toward the back of the camera. They are just spring tabs that lock the metal frame with the lens-mount side of the camera body. If your camera is upside down, pushing those holes toward the back should make them pop up. Do this with both tabs and the metal frame that secure the screen should be free and the screen can be taken out by righting the camera orientation.

Putting the screen back is just the reverse of the process. Just make sure you note the orientation of the screen before you actually remove it from the body. Also, take care not to loose the shims, if there are any. It is quite hard to mess up the focusing by just removing and reinstalling the screen, so don't worry about it too much, just be careful in the orientation and order of things you remove.

Nikon F80
http://blog.xuite.net/jyi.shieh/jyi/20928959?ref=rel
Nikon F5

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfinder/f5.htm

The biggest bonus Nikon gave to F5 users is the DP-30 finder which is made of titanium (That is why I said, it was very generous move indeed). Why a Titanium finder ? I have seen many "smash & dented" Nikons (Especially at the service center at Shiro Malaysia for the last 15 years), 50% were happened at finders... most of them still work perfectly on the camera, despite those seemingly irreparable condition shown - this has make me feel more appreciative for an interchangeable finder system in a Nikon - at least it is not going to be that painful for the pocket to change a whole new set of camera because of a damaged prism ...(just in case I am next).

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/NikonF5/accessories/PhotoSecretary/index.htm

The Nikon Photo Manager is designed exclusively for the F5 . . . with the Personal Computer Connecting Cord MC-33 (for Windows@ 95)/MC-34 (for Macintosh). This allows you to set various F5 operations from your personal computer. You can also download shooting data stored on the F5, thus allowing you to manipulate it on your personal computer.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/f5/users-guide.htm

The Windows MC-33 cord connects to a 9-pin serial port.Today, Anders writes that he connects the MC-33 adapter through a Sandberg serial to USB converter to his Windows 7 PC.

He connected the adapter, and the drivers for the USB converter were installed automatically
He attached the camera and ran Photo Secretary, and it connected to the F5, and it runs just fine.

Seagull 4A-103 Texer
Totally mechanical and metallic, no battery needed, built to last. Perfect for taking photo on plane when no battery is allowed, the 90 degree viewfinder is also perfect for taking photo from the window.

海歸機.

Low price, large format, simple 120 film. I should have a V750/V700 first or the film scanning by shop is $30 per frame in Fotomax, $150 per roll for digitizing and resolution is too low (1MP) from Colorsix. 天祥影集 has better price but quality is a question.

Instead of buying other TLR, buy accessories like magnifying glass or prism view finder。

A V700 cost about $4,000, about the cost of 20 rolls of 120 film including scanning, the film itself and traffic.

Again, don't like manual focus but I need to support Chinese camera and 120 film has 4 times the size of 35mm film.

Though Rolleiflex or Yashica TLR may be better, but their last production was many years ago. Seagull produce new TLR camera!

Haiou SA-85, 75mm f3.5 lens: Interestingly enough, the lens that takes the picture is of the same quality of the lens that is used for the view finder. While this may make it seem like the lens is cheap (usually on other TLR's like rolleiflex, the taking lens is of better quality than the viewing lens) do not be dismayed. After I enquired "Popular Photography" as to why they had yet to do a review of the Seagull, they published a comprehensive article which included lens tests of both the Seagull 4B-1 as well as the higher level 4A-107. As it is easy to assume, the 4A-107 did considerably better than the 4B-1, however the 4B-1 still had good results. 

If you plan on taking pictures on wide aperatures, the 4 element 4A-107 is for you. However if you are willing to leave your shutter at f16 or f22, you can achieve excellent results with the three element 4B-1 or 4A-105. At f16 and f22 the center resolution of the image was rated very good by "Popular Photography" with corner sharpness being rated excellent. While this lens is not considered to be relatively fast, a f3.5, this is much better than the f5.6 I get from the zoom lens on my Rebel 2000. Being the novice I once was, when ordering this camera I felt sure that It was coming with a telephoto lens of 75mm. Keep in mind that focal lengths in medium format are different from 35mm, and that the 75mm lens is roughly the same as taking a picture at 50mm in 35mm format

After comparison of photos between Hasselblad, Seagull and other TLRs, I found that others are not much better than Seagull, sometimes Seagull is even better. This may be due to the TLR structure of Seagull. Considered that others are much more expensive than Seagull, there is no reason not to buy Seagull. 

http://forum.xitek.com/showarchives.php?threadid=266720&pagenumber=4

4A比4B操作要方便。具体型号、生产日期可查沈阳916网站。如果直接进4A不改造，我觉得中期生产的比早期的要好；晚期生产的比中期的要好，成色一定要高。这种东西除了除了快门机构是不锈钢的，其它都是破铜烂铁片，时间久了会生锈，黄油也会凝固。最好是海鸥4A-103，装配比较严谨。成色不好，没有海鸥肩带锁扣，别人修过，快门收缩无力的再便宜也不能要。我手中这台是花460元买的全新未用品，加了500元换了109的操作面板、取景器和裂像屏（主要是与我的YASHICA124G一致）。成像不能说比124G好，而是各有千秋。124G有最小光圈32，拍摄反转片层次好；seagull4A反差大，拍摄黑白好一些。改良版4A-109我用着很有把握，数码单反测光完全可以。改造为天塞结构，对焦成像肯定要好一些，不容置疑。

http://www.fotop.net/freecat/haiou

4B photos looks better than 4A, how come? But this website said 4A-1 is much better:

http://forum.xitek.com/showarchives.php?threadid=266720

海鸥 4A-107 红皮点金 全新 is just RMB 1,788, 4A-109 is better than 4A-107?

http://item.taobao.com/auction/item_detail-0db1-26f7c22796b375e2e74b1f2579e252b5.jhtml?cm_cat=0

海鸥 photo looks even better than Hassy sometimes, this is a sample by Seagull 4A-107 + Kodak PPN160過期片:

http://www.callbusy.biz/wordpress/?p=2115

网主的评价：

http://www.callbusy.biz/wordpress/?p=1527

你观察得很仔细啊!
我把我的一台有关细节也贴上来.供大家参考分析.
机身号:4A103-03274
取景镜头:31714012.
摄影镜头:无编号.也无SA-**字样.
其余都和小泥巴儿的一样.但背带扣是和普通一样是正装的.镜头圈上的数字应是生产年份无疑.都是三片三组结构亦无疑.

http://www.camgle.com/archiver/tid-14021.html

Nikon FM2/T
Need: A beautiful, light, metallic and fully mechanical SLR.

Leica is too expensive as a full mechanical camera, use FM2 as a mechanical and metallic camera before I got a Leica, though it also has some plastic part.

FM2/T is beautiful enough, no need for FM3A.

The FM2 also offers good utility features such as interchangeable focusing screens, that mean I can get a new one if it become old or dirty.

I like Nikkor 85mm f/1.4, but it is not fully metal, I already has EF lenses and EF 135mm works as well as it. SLR cannot produce better pictures than range finder for standard distance, the lenses is not as good as m-mount lens when using on M43 body.

Cannot use EF lenses, operation is opposite to EOS system. Expensive. If really want a fully mechanic and metallic camera, go for TLR. Titanium shutter. 50 millions F-Mount lenses.

http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Nikon_FM2

The Nikon FM2 is well known for its durability. In a time where many manufacturers were switching to electronic mechanisms, most devices on the FM2 were built entirely mechanically. Many FM2s remain in service to this day, while many other cameras from that time no longer work. Many parts were designed to be self-lubricating, and so very little, if any, maintenance is required of the owner (other than maintenance one would expect with an SLR of course).

The FM2 is not a small camera. In fact, it is very hefty by many standards. However, what you pay for in size you gain in durability. The basic FM2 is extremely resistant to damage, though a model was made by Nikon with a titanium body, the FM2/t.

The FM2 is also serviceable in a wide variety of temperatures -- ranging from −40°C to +50°C. The Canadian Government continues to use Nikon FM2 cameras in the Arctic because of this. 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2t/index.htm

In 1994, Nikon introduced a Titanium version based on their immensely popular mechanical Nikon FM2n. As the camera was officially discontinued in 1997 and many collectors have started collecting this rare piece of hardware. As opposed to the Champaign finished for the Nikon F3T in 1983, the FM2/T's finish is matted finished in a very distinguishable grayish Titanium color but shown its shinny interior once the exterior coating is scratched. (I saw one myself, it is ugly, not worth the money to buy a Titanium one, no wonder it stop production).

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index4.htm

Investing into a Nikon SLR such as FM2(n) is none other than the 70 odd manual focus optics.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/35mm-28-ai.htm

Nikon's manual focus lenses have been the world standard for decades against which all other lenses are judged. I prefer the manual focus feel to any Leica lens I've ever held.

Decision: Bought

- Alternatives -
Nikon D3S
Full frame, can use all F-Mount lens, with sensor cleaning mechanism, 9fps, 720p video. Price will certainly fall after 2-3 years.

Weakness: Too heavy, too expensive, live view on cheaper model can replace its metering function for AI lens. FF can be a problem for vignetting AI lens, APS-C sensor just work.

Pentax 645D
Lenses can be used on Nikon body.

Nikon D90
Need: Cheap digital support AF-S lens with dust removal ability, live view for AI lens and also video.

FF can be a problem for vignetting AI lens, APS-C sensor is good enough, remember what I need is a cheap digital body for the very beautiful Nikkor 85mm f/1.4 AF-D lens.

Canon 500D can do manual focusfor Nikon AI lens, but D90 support AF-S lens, by the time I bought the 14-24mm and 80-200mm AF-S lenses (the reason I bought Nikon), the price of D90 should be low enough.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=27211013

"I can tell you that the dust removal feature was my main consideration. I had a LOT of trouble with dust with the D40x, even exchanging the first camera body I had bought. And I do not change lenses frequently, or even outside for that matter. I keep the 18-55 kit lens on for everyday/family, and change to 18-200 before traveling. I later read a lot of other forums/reviews that confirmed the dust problem was fairly common. And talk about post-processing: no matter how easily Photoshop will remove dust spots, no one wants to waste their time doing that unnecessarily, especially after an important event or trip where you've got hundreds of shots a day."

D90 is much better than D5000 and D3000 but it do has a intervalometer and I do not need AF-D AF motor support, I will buy AF-S lenses:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d5000.htm
Nikon D70
Cheaper than FM3A, I aleady has FM2T, no need for FM3A plastic top.

Very attractive and useful CR2 battery holder:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d70.htm

Also you can use three CR2 batteries instead if you use the included MS-D70 battery holder; absolutely fantastic!

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d70s.htm

The D70s can use the same brilliant MS-D70 holder that uses three CR2 disposable batteries, however that holder is an extra cost accessory for the D70s and not included for free as it is with the D70. That's too bad, since by putting $10 worth of CR2 batteries in this holder and dropping it in my bag I have a backup battery that will last for at least ten years, saving me from having to buy another $50 EN-EL3 that would need to be charged every couple of months to keep it fresh. Disposable lithium batteries stay fresh for at least a decade unlike lithium rechargeables. Thus I'd suggest you buy the MS-D70 if you get a D70s.

Weakness: No live view for AI lens, no dust removal, for video, I can use Canon body for Nikon lens, for dust removal, I use Nikon lens for portrait, so dust is not a big deal and I can clean the sensor manually.

E-PL1
Can fit other excellent lenses to it, can take movie on good old manual lenses.

Nikon D700
Need: Digital support 85mm AF-D lens with dust removal ability, live view for AI lens and also video.

Can fully utilize Auto focus function of Nikon's Portrait King 85mm f/1.4 AF-D and the image circle of Landscape King 14-24mm AF-S lens, also can make use of the Nikon AI lens metering. I already has FM2/T and 50mm f/1.4 as a cheap combination, for cheap digital I can just use EOS 500D with adaptor, no need to buy cheap Nikon DSLR.

Full frame, but no video, use 5DII instead for video, also Nikkor lens can be mounted on EOS body with adaptor. For example Nikkor 17-35mm F2.8 can be mounted on EOS 5D Mark II (and Nex-5).

If I have money, its price is not a concern. If I have no money, shall not buy any Nikon DSLR at all cause I already have the 500D.

Nikon D5000

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d5000.htm

"The Nikon D5000 is Nikon's best DSLR today, if size, weight and price matter.

The D5000 offers the technical image quality of Nikon's best DX cameras like the D300s and D90, with the smallest size, weight and price."

Can support my AI 50mm and 200mm lenses with electronic range finder, what is it?

http://www.letsgodigital.org/html/review/nikon/d50/nikon_D50_EN2.html

"If the lens has a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or faster, the viewfinder focus indicator can be used to confirm whether the subject in the selected focus area is in focus. After positioning the subject in the active focus area, press the shutter-release button half way and rotate the lens focus ring until the in-focus indicator is displayed. Handy is the local plane mark on the camera body, right from the small display, that can be used to determine the distance between the subject and the camera."

Strength:
Intervalometer !
Use SD card
Flip LCD monitor
Light weight
Airflow dust control system
Improve performance of manual lenses like Ai 50mm and Ai 200mm due to crop factor

Weakness:
Cannot fully utilize the strength of lens like AF-S 14-24

EOS 7D
Too heavy as a consumer DSLR, not FF for its weight. Excellent as a video camera and super fast continuous shooting but not FF video, DOF not as good as FF camera.

Canon AE-1P

Need: A stylish camera for collecting

Strength: Stylish, light

Someone said it is not as tough as AE-1 (actually it is also not fully metallic), but I already have the very tough metallic FM2/T, AE-1P is for fun.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_AE-1_Program

Better than the A-1 and for ease of cleaning,  "the AE-1 Program supported interchangeable focusing screens. Unlike the A-1, though, which specified that screens only be changed by the factory or experienced service technicians, those on the AE-1 Program could be user changed."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_AE-1

"The AE-1 was the vanguard of the landmark Canon amateur level A-series SLRs and led Canon’s charge into the emerging electronically controlled SLR market. The other members of the A-series were the AT-1 (released 1977), A-1 (1978), AV-1 (1979), AE-1 Program (1981) and AL-1 (1982). They all used the same compact aluminum alloy chassis, but with different feature levels and outer cosmetic plastic panels. By sharing most major components, including an inexpensive horizontal cloth-curtain shutter, viewfinder information display, and autoflash control, Canon further reduced costs and could undercut the price of the more expensive SLRs then on the market."

http://www.xitek.com/papers/daochengguilai/dcgl2.htm

"AE-1P作为佳能70年代大红大紫的AE-1的改进，发展型。两机外观较相似，快门的许多零件可以互换。但比AE-1作了多处改进：

其一：迎合当时的自动化潮流，增加了程序嚗光方式并增加了嚗光记忆钮；

其二：为了降低成本，采用了很多塑料齿轮。同时，将上，下盖改为塑料制作，这就没有老AE-1的金属盖(actually plastic inside) 结实耐用了，俺自己的机子里面快门系统的一个塑料零件就曾经坏过一次。许多二手的AE-1P上，下盖都有划伤，看起来还不如年代更久远的老AE-1新。到底是金属机壳好，还是塑料机壳好，相信广大用家最有发言权。不过AE-1P的机身增加了一个可卸式掌夹，改善了握持手感。并且与机身一体十分美观；

其三：取景系统改进很大。改聚焦屏为可换式设计。这还真有点专业的味道。共配备了8种，并且更换方便，方法类似FM2。不象A-1那样需要拆开机身。标准配备为E型，传统的水平裂像微棱环设计。该聚焦屏采用佳能独特的激光加工技术，亮度很高，反差也大。其水平裂像测距器工艺独特。即使镜头最大孔径为f/8时也不产生明显的半明半黑现象。但其灵敏度比传统设计要弱些。其余7种聚焦屏在二手市场更罕见。所以此项功能对广大用家来说形同虚设。只是清洁取景器时很方便。"

http://faery.pixnet.net/blog/post/1019467

"乍看之下，Canon AE-1像極 Nikon 的經典銘機 FM2，同樣是銀色烤漆塗裝，但AE-1其實是塑膠機身鍍銅再加以烤漆，才能保持輕巧的重量，經過長久歲月的侵襲之後，機身已有些許部份磨損露銅，更能突顯此系列機身的堅固耐用。

AE-1所用電池為4LR44一顆，目前市面上都“還”找的到，一顆即可用上半年之久；但較讓人詬病之處，是使用B快門時，快門電力非常容易耗盡，對於想拍攝星軌或是需要長時間曝光的用家，可能比較不方便。"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrsRQIxyOzw&feature=related

AE-1P Digital: "sd 870IS in a AE1 body...", just fun.

http://photofan.jp/camera/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=3221&forum=2&post_id=47852

Talking point with customers and friends as 宮崎葵 use it in movie:

Linhof Technika Master 3000
Can be used as a 612/617 range finder, 612 has 8 times area of 135 film, 617 12 times and 4x5 has 15 times area of 135 film. Can take paranoma image with the excellent shift function of the view camera. 

If Leica M is like a handgun, Technika is like a
Can handheld with the range finder, no need to change ground glass, then taking portrait photo is possible too. No need to focus on inverted images.

Tough metallic and accurate mechanical body.

http://www.cameraquest.com/techs.htm

The Master Technika was introduced in 1972 and is still in production. Masters are slightly improved V's, which is to say, slightly improved IV's. Perhaps a better name for the Master would have been the IVb. Masters usually have black leather. The Masters do have slightly more movements than the V, but whether you can justify the big increase in price for such slight improvements is a logical question. 

The Master's claim to fame is improved extreme wide angle movements by way of a top body flap which will move out of the way for extra movements with wide angles. In other words, if you don't work too much with lenses shorter than 90mm, the V will do the job just as well for a lot less. 

Many accessories:

SUPER ROLLEX BACKS 45:
– Format 6x9 cm / 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 – 8 exp./ film 120 001523
– Format 6x7 cm / 2 1/4 x 2 3/4 – 10 exp./ film 120 001459

RAPID ROLLEX 45 SLIDE-IN ROLLFILM HOLDER
– Format 6x7 cm / 2 1/4 x 2 3/4 – 10 exp./ film 120 001567

TECHNO ROLLEX BACK 45
– Format 6x12 cm / 2 1/4 x 4 3/4 – 6 exp./ film 120 001560

FOR DIGITAL BACKS:
RAPID CHANGE ADAPTER SLIDE for Master Technika 001618
Adapter plate for Hasselblad V 001700
Adapter plate for Hasselblad H 001701
Adapter plate for Mamiya 645 AF / AFD 001702

攝影家手札論壇

相機市場也M型化了,大型相機如Linhof,Sinar,RoundShot...等,雖不至於銷售量成長很多,但它們都變貴了!! 比如Linhof 612 pcII 目前報價 25萬,比幾年前的 18 萬貴 7萬 !! 比如Sinar P2 目前報價 22 萬 , 比幾年前開年賣的 18 萬貴 4 萬 !!

所以這些大型相機,還會繼續越來越貴,但入門級的 digital DSLR 卻會越來越便宜.這也算是相機M型化的市場嗎 ?市場上很多東西如 豪宅,車子,相機,眼鏡 都一樣.不是高貴的越貴,就是要便宜的越便宜,但奇怪的是越貴的,還是有市場,還是有人買 !!

http://photo.net/equipment/large-format/linhof-master-technika

The 4x5 V is much less portable but still hand holdable (and I'm not a big man). Both easily outshoot the 6x6 roll film cams including Hassy and Rollei. Had 'em both and I know. Linhofs just go "click" at exposure and are dead still at ridiculous shutter speeds, making the tripod an option in many cases.

http://forum.mflenses.com/zeiss-ikonta-vs-bessa-ii-t9870.html

As far as lenses are concerned, Voigtländer and Zeiss had quite the same standard - either triplets are decent when stopped down, but not really exciting, while the Tessar and Skopar are equally excellent. The 2.8 Tessar as well as the Heliar and APO-Lanthar are top notch even by modern standards, but you'll rarely find one without a collectors price tag, and they are rather wasted on a folder - it takes a Linhof to bring film path precision, lens alignment, internal diffusion and shutter precision up to that level, so you may as well settle for a Tessar type. 

Olympus Mju II
Announce: 1999-02

Cheap and good, lightest full frame camera, add all-weather . . . 

No need to put another battery for the date imprint function.

Fully automatic, if I need more control, there are many other choice, say FM2. 

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_pressDetails.asp?pressNo=22

"A high-performance aspherical lens contributes to the high resolution of the lens. Image quality is also enhanced by a high-precision 600-step AF system with a three-point Multi Active focusing system."

http://www.dingdong161.com/2008/09/olympus-mju-ii.html

"mju是傻瓜底片機，它會對焦，而且很準! 這對LCA或8m類需要感覺對焦無力的人們是一大福音阿!"

http://photo.net/olympus/mjuII

"This cheap little plastic camera lacks exposure compensation, lacks the ability to accept filters and it carries its flash too close to the lens to avoid redeye, but it still manages to make sharp well balanced photos of an all purpose nature. Your snow pictures and Niagra falls will just be underexposed and you can't do anything about it, but 95% of the time no exposure comp won't be a problem. 

It fits in your pocket, easily, no screen to scratch, it is safe and happy in its little plastic shell. It is water resistant. No theft risk, who wants it? At least a 20 Million pixel capture demolishes any camera phone I have seen.The various other advantages of film, no errasure, permanent record, original image can't be manipulated etc. Might be just the thing to have at an auto accident, the slightly wide lens might just get what you need also. 8x10 enlargemeents are a piece of cake"

Minolta Alpha 9 Ti

Can use Sony-only Auto-focus Zeiss Sonnar 135mm F1.8 ZA and AF Reflex 500mm lens at full frame.

Announced in 1998-09:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1YBG4O4hUA&feature=related

See the announcement date at 0:41

Strength: User changeable focusing screens, can record film exposure data, DM-9 can imprint date in film gap, 1/12000 sec shutter, no scratch-able LCD back ,Titanium body is available . . .

Weakness: 

1. No honeycomb exposure and DOF screen as Maxxum 7. 

2. Too heavy as a film camera

Since the lenses SAL135mm ZA and 500mm Reflex are driven by AF motor in the camera body, A9 is needed for its powerful AF motor to maximize the speed of those lenses, and those 2 lenses are the reason I buy Alpha camera, Alpha 9 is not that expensive anyway.

Though Alpha-7 has more functions:

http://photo.net/equipment/minolta/maxxum7

Alpha-9 is much more robust, for the benefits of Maxxum-7, I can get them on NEX-5 and A900.

Alpha-9 better than Alpha-7

"The thin plastic body of the Maxxum 7 is very prone to breaking and I have owned many with cracks and missing pieces of plastic from impacts. If you drop a Maxxum 7, leave it and walk away because it will be useless. A Maxxum 9 is so robust that I have seen pros drop them from 20 feet with no problems and even if dented, the camera still worked. Having owned probably more of these two camera models than anyone in the US (and my total includes four Maxxum 9Tis), I can tell you one major problem that will occur with Maxxum 7s. To get the super fast auto focus ability (Minolta's fastest on any camera), Minolta had to link the aperture base plate mechanism of the Maxxum 7 to the auto focus mechanism. So, if you have a failed aperture baseplate mechanism on a Maxxum 7, the whole auto focus mechanism will also have to be replaced. Since parts are not available for this camera and since this is a common problem with Maxxum 7s, it should be a concern for potential buyers. Maxxums 9s are several times more robust and made so much better than the Maxxum 7. I have owned at least 4 dozen in total and the ONLY problem I have ever had with a Maxxum 9 is that sometimes the contacts for the right hand top cover knob get oxidized and the top cover needs to be removed (by a pro) and the contacts cleaned. This has been the only problem and it's a very fixable problem whereas a failed aperture control mechanism on a Maxxum 7 is not.

The Maxxum 9 had Minolta's FASTEST SHUTTER which could reach a top-speed of 1/12,000th of a second while the Maxxum 7 could only reach 1/8000th second top speed. The film advance on a Maxxum 9 peaked at 5.5 FRAMES PER SECOND while the best a Maxxum 7 could do is 4 frames per second. The Maxxum 9 had a viewer that showed 100% filed of view (a rarity on SLRs) while the Maxxum 7's was about 93%."

If the Alpha-7 is broken, I will use Alpha-5, 50E, 500N or buy a new Alpha 7.

Contax G2
2010年4月中，路過尖沙咀的將軍相機店，看見一台很漂亮的FM2/T, 令我有衝動想買一台全金屬的輕便135相機，後來覺得，與其用8000元買Nikon，不如買Leica M3或者Contax G2. M3缺乏自動化，如果要全機械，不如用TLR。後來在網上看見一台殘舊的Xpan II，相機在尖沙咀也看見過一台同樣殘破的TX1，覺得如果追求長久保有相機的話，鈦金屬機身的確很重要，有點後悔賣出了我的T3，G2雖然比T3早生產，但看來更有型，T3的鏡頭蓋看起不是那麼硬朗，在街上看見的G2大多成色都還是很好，證明鈦金屬機身的確耐磨，抗腐蝕。

對焦方法有點怪，而且90mm鏡頭對焦不太好，不過解決方法也很簡單，只用45mm 和 35mm F/2 鏡頭就好了。Zeiss鏡頭那種比較偏暖調的紅色，實在不是我的那杯茶，但是作為收藏品，也許這個不是大問題，而且可以用後制來解決，用適當的菲林也是一個方法，還有掃描器應該也可以解决Zeiss成像偏紅的“問題”吧？

Saw it myself, it is just too big as a P&S(but still a P&S), G45 is said to be one of the best MTF lens according to Hassle Lab (as stated in Zhao Jia's book), may be I can use G45 on M43 body (e.g. E-PL1).

Red is too red and green is too green (may be scanner problem), better save money for Canon L lens like 135mm f/2 L which is also in the Best Lens list

Looks better than Leica CM and Fujifilm Klasse, though Autofocus with 90mm lens not very good, also date imprint function very useful, the most detailed among others

Titanium Body can last long for collection purpose.

Focusing problem may be due to people coming from the Manual Focus SLR world, they do not allow time for the camera to focus and press the shutter release button without waiting the focusing mechanism to finish its task.

This is the best range finder camera system ever produced. Quality/Price rating is much better than Leica's. All Carl Zeiss prime lenses to it from 16mm to 90mm are fantastic. Camera and all lenses are small and light with outstanding quality, ideal for travel. Auto focus works great and helps to shoot fast changing scenes. Low ISO film (like Velvia 100) scanned on drum scanner produces better results than any digital SLR.

http://kenrockwell.com/contax/g2.htm

The optics of the Contax G2 are equal or superior to Leica lenses, and far superior to Nikon or Canon lenses.

The Contax pretends it's German by using DIN fonts on the camera, but it is 100% Japanese, just like the girls you'll see illustrating the users' manual.

The G2 is a solid, precise camera that is super-easy to use, lightweight and fun to carry and shoot, and gives extraordinary results.

The Contax G2 has the best viewfinder ever put in a range finder camera.

Why? Because it zooms as you change lenses, so it always has the perfect size.

Not only does it correct for parallax, it is unique in correcting for different magnifications at different distances. Unlike Leica or anyone else, I always get perfect framing at any distance.

Another benefit of the unique Contax G mount is that there is no third-party garbage floating around. When you shoot a Contax G2, you'll always have Zeiss power shooting for you, You'll never be tempted by junk from Sigma, Voigtländer or Tamron.

http://photo.net/equipment/contax/g2

There is no way for a G2 photographer to tell if something is in focus except to rely on the distance readout in the viewfinder on the top of the camera. The G2 lenses do not even have focus rings. The Leica coincident rangefinder sytem is a joy to use for normal and wide angle lenses. It is easy to see and is certain - provided it is properly aligned.

No one complains about the focusing accuracy of normal or wide angle lenses with either the G2 or the M6. They both focus accurately - better than any SLR. But let us look at the focusing accuracy with a 90 mm lens. Both the M6 and the G2 have questions on their records here.

Now the waters get really choppy - comparing the G2 to a Leica M6. First the basic differences.... The G2 is autofocus; the M6 is not. The G2 has motorized advance; the M6 does not. The G2 has auto film loading; the M6 does not. The G2 has an electronic shutter; the M6 does not. Notice a trend here? The G2 has a lot of stuff that the M6 does not have. The G2 has a lot of modern features which the M6 lacks. Before you start feeling sorry for the poor ol' M6 user, however, consider that most M6 users relish this lack of features. The M6 is desirable to many photographers exactly because it does not have all of these features. Lets look at some specific issues.

I constantly shoot wide open at shutter speeds of 1/8 of a second and slower. Some of my colleages have dubbed me the "Robot" for such a capability, but I attribute it all to my "G". Last week I picked up some transparencies from the lab and I was shocked to find a particular slide to have even been sharp, let alone recognizable. I shot this image at two seconds, hand held in available light with a promotional roll of Kodak's new E100vs a rep gave to me. Incredibly enough, I got the shot. For comparison's sake, I also own an extensive Canon EOS system, including the much revered EF 28-135 IS USM lens. The IS stands for Image Stabilization. I've been able to get very good results even down to 1/4th of a second, but nothing nearly as slow or as sharp as wih my Contax G2.
Leica M7

Need: A tough, metallic, fully mechanic option, some automatic film range finder

If I want a German camera, the Linhof Technika is purely metallic and mechanical.

Tough camera, tougher than FM2T. M7 can work without battery with shutter speed at 1/60 and 1/125.

Exposure metering. Lots of lenses choice, color tone fit me. Range finder can shoot photo at much slower shutter speed than SLR. Has all the advantages of a real RF.

Do you really want all that trouble in taking photo with it? With all the money on Leica I can buy a lot of other things. Buy a second hand M6 can save some money . . .

黃銅機身，就算鈦金屬版的其實也只是包了一層鈦金屬上去。使用布幕快門令人懷疑它的耐用性。

要全機械的話，不如用TLR或Nikon FM2。M6 也有測光。FM2 is really good, a mechanical and mettalic SLR I wanted for a long time, FM2 is also tough and have a lot of lens. Actually FM2 is just a poor man Leica, what FM2 worth, Leica perform better. Leica touhger, heavier, more metallic and stylish, it is even owned by a French Fashion company called Hermes.

Though Leica is still kicking, how long can it stay is a question, Nikon can survive for a longer time due to its good DSLR business. Leica cameras are actually made in Japan and Canada, what is the meaning of not buying FM2?

沒錯，Nikon 手動鏡頭沒有防手震的話，很難于低速快門下獲得清晰地影像，相反，Canon 的防手震鏡頭可用於菲林機，用低感光度膠片問題會比較小。當然，Nikon也有防手震鏡頭，但那不是我選擇Nikon的本意。

如果是企圖以相機結交朋友的話，Leica應該是更好的選擇，國內很多高幹和富豪都會比較喜歡Leica吧，要結交普通人的話，Canon和其他相機也可以勝任。投資于Leica應該能夠聯繫到跟單反和DC不同的人。當年很多國產機都是以Leica為藍本，應該有很多人對它有情意結。

http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00BuSh

My advice is forget taking a valuable camera into conditions that might destroy it. Go to keh.com and order 2 or 3 old Nikon F's, Pentax Spotmatics or K1000's in "bargain" condition. Get the ones that either have no meters or ones where the meters don't work. Buy a few cheap "bargain" lenses to fit them. Those old Nikkor and Taukamar lenses were outstanding but they're cheap as goat dirt now (ahem). If the equipment OD's on the extremes, you haven't lost much. Especially compared to a Leica MP. Save the MP for your son (who will probably sell it at a pawn shop soon after he gets it passed down to him).

http://zeissfans.net/viewthread.php?tid=9615&page=1

徠卡M6與M7的分別，表面上是機械相機與電子相機的分別；內裡卻是耐用性、適應性與方便性的分別，是製造哲學的分別。徠卡M6是機械相機製作的顛峰，極少的電子元件只負責測光，「電池的非必要性」，使徠卡M6能持續維持效力，無論在零下25度還是在零上60度，徠卡M6都可以分毫不差的正常工作。徠卡M 機很長時間不推出電子版，就是因為電子相機達不到這樣的技術指標。 

徠卡的布簾快門看起來不如鋼片快門結實，其實徠卡的布簾快門在耐用性上並不比鋼片快門差。來卡的布簾快門用手指碰一碰決無問題，半個世紀前用在M3上的布簾快門，至今多數操作如常。而看似鋼性十足的鋼片快門，手是決不能碰的，就是膠片不小心倒進去了，這時你不小心按下了快門，快門也會報廢。這種快門變形後就無法復原，要修理都是整組換，價格不菲，還不是一般小地方弄得了的。 

我這人沒什麼手勁，單反相機用低於1／60秒的速度，清晰度就令人擔憂，用徠卡，我可以從容用1／8秒工作，不得已用1／2秒也有三分之二的成功率。

http://blog.yam.com/moneylong/article/17515551

Popular Photography 曾宣稱G2 90/2.8 是他們曾測試過所有中望遠鏡頭中最銳利的鏡頭，我想可能是的。我在全開光圈下比較G2 90 和Leica Elmarit-M 90，得到的結果如下：

（1 ）影像中央部份： Leica要銳利一點。

（2 ）影像距離中央1/3~2/3 的位置： Leica的銳利度快速降低，Zeiss 比較銳利（這好像是典型的Zeiss 和Leica 鏡頭的特徵）

（3 ）平均銳利度：從最大到最小光圈差不多相等，換言之，皆很銳利。

（4 ）色調： Zeiss比較偏暖調（紅色），Leica 比較偏青色。

（5 ）重量： Zeiss比Leica 要輕40%.

（6 ）價格： Zeiss是Leica 價格的1/3.

（7 ） CP 值（最多五顆星）： Zeiss~ 七顆星（價格實在太便宜了）。

http://www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm

A weak point of the M6, M6 TTL, M7 and MP is the battery compartment design. The battery cap is a weird design on the front of the camera, where the self timer is located on many cameras.  The screw in cap is awkward to remove or install.  You would think that Leica could have found a better solution, but it hasn't happened so far. 

Black or Chrome or Titanium? Long term, a worn black chrome looks downright ugly, although black may be easier to shoot without being noticed -- maybe.  The chrome has a nice "retro" look about it which I like more than the black.  Overall, I personally prefer the  Titanium, which has the most rugged and scratch resistant finish.   Unfortunately the M6 Titanium was produced with a rather odd artificial ostrich body covering which does not go well with the top plate -- at least in my opinion.    Titanium M6 classic  production stopped with the introduction of the M6 TTL.   The Titanium M6 and its matching Titanium lenses are rather low production, and sure to be future collectibles.   Yes, before you ask, the M6 classic finishes are limited to black chrome, silver chrome, and titanium.   My personal favorite  is the titanium M6.   Too bad the M6 classic was not made in black paint.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leica_MP

Shutter mechanically timed horizontal running "cloth shutter", and Shutter speed range 1s - 1/1000s with Bulb and 1/50s flash.

Leica CM
Has a Fluorite lens, but the image is not impressive and it is too big.
Contax T3
The photo color is not my cup of tea.
Minolta TC-1
Taste suit me, Leica is really not my cup of tea, T3 looks like Leica but much cheaper, instead of Leica, play T3 and TC-1

Destined to be failed, no collection value?

http://www.hkmug.org/archiver/?tid-404.html

除左tc1...同佢齊名的有contax t3....仲有leica mxxxx(唔記得點串喇...) 和nikon35....
但以機能來說....tc1無出其右.... 功能已經係一部slr咁....

起碼....t3冇ael.... leica mxxxx好大部.... nikon35對焦弱.....

而tc1就針對佢地...冇佢地的問題....包括有ael....最細部....有af補助燈...仲有...零玄光的超強光學設計...都是對手不及的....

易壞問題...我聽返d師傅講...如果成日用,反而唔會咁易壞的!!而且佢個body好堅ga....體弱問題....最易死係鏡頭和機身之間的一條金屬線...

如果長時間唔用...一開..就會有拉斷之誤...所以如果成日用反而可以避開呢個問題....

但!!!!!! hk的師傅係識整ge!!!! 亦唔係傳說中只得日本師傅先搞得掂... 我擁有過2部tc1....出左事都係搵hk師傅幫我搞掂...

1次是2手購得...tst師傅不用一天就搞掂...
1次是全新行...km師傅用了幾天時間就搞

Linhof Technika Master 3000
Portable but not more portable than Canon DSLR with TS-E lenses
Can use data back.
Can use 4x5 film, 15 times larger than 135 sensors.

Sony A550
Can fully utilize Sony Reflex 500m lens AF function and Zeiss 135mm lens DoF, add focal length to the lenses and improve image quality. With tilting LCD display.

Ebony 617SE Ti
Look much better and looks tougher than other 617 camera, seems it will last longer than the Shenhao 617, but it is also much more expensive, 617 will be defeated by 135 DSLR one day, no need to last so long.
Lenses can be used on 135 cameras with adapter, added tilt and shift functions.
Chamonix 045N-2

Wooden. cheap, stylish

Not cheaper than 2nd hand Technika.
EOS 300
Need: A light fully automatic film SLR

Lightest EOS SLR, feature and performance comparable to 30/33/30V/7s
Full functional, cheapest EOS SLR. Comapare with more expensive cameras, it can be fully automated or manual, 500N is much lighter and the quality only depends on film and lens. ISO 100 film with good scanner can still produce very good result compare with DSLR.

Can be used as light meter for manual cameras.

Hasselblad 503CW
Hasselblad 500CW do support data back and is affordable. Photo quality will not be much better than Seagull 4A-103 using 6x6 film, but it can use 6x6 databack, one day 6x6 databack will cost less than 1000 dollar and has 90MP.

Hasselblad has a lot of accessories and top quality lenses, and many people have it, good for social purpose.

But no matter how good is it, it is still just a MF camera, not big difference from 135. 

Pentax 645D

http://kenrockwell.com/pentax/645d/index.htm

'If I get my hands on one I'll let you know, but for now, I'd rather shoot a Pentax 645N or a Contax 645 instead.

Hopefully the Pentax 645D will improve on this original Pentax 645D in 2012, as the Pentax 645N greatly improved on the original Pentax 645. The original Pentax 645 also had a huge problem with pushbuttons where knobs should have been (still only half as bad as the Pentax 645D), and then the Pentax 645N added the knobs that should have been on the older Pentax 645 all along.'

Pentax 645
http://photofan.jp/camera/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=6189&forum=10

"Pentax 的中型相機都不能換片匣，數位化反而成了致命傷..."

Pentax 67II
The quality of the photo will not be better much better than Seagull 4A-103, though it is much more user friendly.

Olympus OM-4
No so durable and not as many lenses as Nikon and Canon:

http://photo.net/casual-conversations-forum/00SJ4r

Olympus cameras had many great feature as you mention, but they ultimately proved unreliable, and required servicing for multiple problems, mostly electronic. Given their advanced age now, I would not consider an OM3/4 for just that reason, even though I still love the size, handling and features of the series.
Hexar RF
Not mechanic, Konica ceased production.
Leica MP
Not looking as good as M6.

Leica M3
http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?LeicaM3.html~mainFrame

The M3 rangefinder is a very intricate design using multiple prisms glued together using Canadian balsam glue, made from the resin of pine trees. Unfortunately, as an organic glue it has a finite life span and will degrade. This may show up in the finder either as minor "crazing" or cracking along the edges where two surfaces are glued together. It may look iridiscent or opaque. Basically crazing is the first step towards finder separation. Hold your camera up to the light and look at it from the front (lens side) and make sure all of the edges of the finder frame are complete.

Total prism separation is also possible. In this case, the entire viewfinder will black out, or the rangefinder patch will become invisible or black out. This can happen gradually as the result of crazing, or suddenly due to a strong force (dropping or knocking the camera).

Previously, it was thought that this was the end of the finder and that the only option would be to put in the (much inferior) Leica M6 finder as a replacement. However, several repair places are now offering to repair your M3 finder by regluing and/or resilvering them.
Xpan II

The XPan II was announced in April 2003, and stop production is in 2006, so it is a relative new camera compared to other film camera, but the camera body is easy to wear out as I saw its photos on web. 在網上看見一台殘舊的Xpan II相機,在尖沙咀也看見過一台同樣殘破的TX1, still a metallic camera.

Hasselblad is a Hong Kong, using Hasselblad products means supporting Hong Kong company, but harmful materials are used in the lenses, I shall not support using those materials.

Most photos I saw from Xpan II is beautiful, but the film is difficult to be scanned. At first I think it will be easy to scan because it use 135 film, but then I found that it is not so. With those trouble, I shall use 120 cameras instead, the 6x7 lenses for Xpan II should be left for 120 cameras.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/hasselbladxpan/discuss/72157613752675891/

Double the resolution of 135 film.

http://www.photographyreview.com/cat/cameras/film-cameras/rangefinders/hasselblad/PRD_154608_3138crx.aspx

No TTL flash metering in this camera, despite the fact that Hasselblad has had TTL flash exposure metering in its V series camreas for more than 15 years. This is an unnecessary exclusion in any language. 

Less of an issue is the somewhat surprisingly limited exposure range of EV4 at it's lowest - meaning that in both AE and manual exposure modes the camera is very limited in low light shooting unless you use "B" setting. It's only of less an issue because one would sensibly be using a hand-held meter for such conditions to ensure an optimal exposure setting and might as well just set the camera to "B" for exposures longer than 1 or 2 seconds. 

Low cost with more control, tougher body, full frame 135 camera
EOS 1V
Overkill and overweight as a film camera, the main advantage is the fast shutter but I won't use that function to burn my expensive films.

A must buy for Canon film camera collector, price will rise. Battery grip can be detached. Can talk with others, making relationship with high rank officials, generals and businessmen.

Focus matte can be replaced for 1V so that it can be cleaned too.

1 series have weather proof and metallic body that xxD series cannot beat, 

auto-focus at f/8 and shooting data of films 

1v is only faction of the price of 1Ds series.

1V use 2CR5 battery same as my EOS 50E

1v has 1/8000 sec shutter and f/8 autofocus

1V can record photo taking data.

Just too heavy, use the money to buy 120 camera instead.

1v have the benefits but may be I shall buy a 2nd hand 1d instead?

I already have 500N, Mju II and 50E for film photo taking

1V is good for collection that can last long and its value can appreciate.

Actually I seldom take film photo.

Canon EOS 30V
Beautiful blue back light！Made in Taiwan. Oil leaking problem. 

Digital is much more efficient than film, photo taking in 35 film is for art and fun. Use ISO 100 negative film only like Reala, according to 赵嘉， negative has much higher resolution than positive, especially black and white negative! 

The Elan 7NE is the best Elan yet and likely the last of its kind (unless a Digital Elan appears). It's a little sad as I've used an Elan series camera constantly since 1991

Like the Elan 7E before it, the Elan 7NE is an excellent camera: thoughtful ergonomics, easy operation and photographic flexibility. And it should be as it's identical to the prior Elan 7E save a few minor improvements. The enhanced AF, flash and cosmetics make a great camera a little sweeter. Plus, the Elan 7NE boasts the best value to performance ratio in the EOS film line. Only minor issues with quality control stain an otherwise near perfect camera. For most photo hobbyists this is as near to an ideal camera as it gets. The Elan 7NE is also great for travel and trekking due to its petite stature and full feature set. 

Some film cameras are for connection only, 1V and G2 also have data recording ability.

The back of 30V is not pretty but still much better than 300X

再加一點，我用過30跟30v，30v好用但是台灣組裝的，30是日本做的。

用過30V...它讓我最詬病的就是底片導軌竟是塑膠做的無言嘆氣
拍攝約五十卷底片後,導軌兩端會磨得很光亮慟哭
為免刮傷底片,早早就將它轉手掰掰

現在服役的是EOS 3(去年三月全新購入),光是看到光亮亮的金屬導軌就很感動高興
但它的眼控對焦從來沒用過...

假如EOS3能找到品項好的當然是首選，但是我當初在找時大都年代久遠、品項不佳，小毛病也滿多的。
後來想想30V其實就很好用，機子通常也較新比較沒毛病，電池也便宜(3的電池貴而且容易耗電)

30V is made in Taiwan, focus matte cannot be replaced, seen oil leaking in a new camera.

for film camera, the quality mainly depends on film, 50E can do what 1V can. Contax G2 can record more data on film than 1V. Manual focusing and film processing is troublesome from my FM10 experience, avoid manual film camera as much as possible.

If film is unavoidable (for quality), consider camera with data back capability. Buy expensive large format (4x5, 8x10) camera for highest resolution is very inconvenient, buy 167 instead, also I can take architecture photo and landscape photography though I cannot become a architect.

http://photo.net/equipment/canon/elan-7

Anthony Grasso , May 14, 2001; 04:43 P.M.

I have been using the Elan 7E for a few months now. Previously, I was using the Elan II. It appears to me that the fact that the new Elan 7E does not have an infrared focusing assisting in low light is a major disadvantage. I went to a wedding this weekend and took some pictures in the church and I thought the wedding party was going to attack me. The strobe on the built in flash was strobing like crazy. I had to turn it off using one of the Custom Functions. I then had to focus manually indoors which can get a little tricky with this camera.
 
I rarely ever had any problems with the Elan II.

Mahesh Venkitachalam , June 19, 2001; 02:57 P.M.

I just upgraded from an Elan II E to an Elan 7. (Not an Elan 7 E because I found eye control to be useless and had disabled it all through the 2 years I owned the Elan II) Here are my impressions after 3 rolls of slide film through it, all of which are direct comparisons to the Elan II.

PLUSES:

1. It is really much quieter. I used to find the mirror slap on the Elan II to be too loud for candid shots of people. With Elan 7, it is really muted. The silent rewind for the Elan 7 is so quiet that the first time it happened, I was staring dumbly at the camera, wondering why it's not working, not understanding that I had finished the roll and it had rewound.
2. Having a separate button for DOF preview really helps. The exposure lock button is free now to play with.

MINUSES:

1. It has trouble focusing in low light, especially on uniform surfaces. (without the flash assisting it) I did direct comparisons with the Elan II, and the II fared much better. 

2. The viewfinder has more glare compared to the Elan II when a bright light source is behind you.

MISC:

1. Highly recommend the vertical grip/battery pack BP-300. It really improves handling. 2. I never understood the confusion about MLU. I guess this is because I actually read the manual.

Overall, I really like the Elan 7, and am happy about the upgrade

Aaron P. , May 07, 2003; 10:16 P.M.

The Elan 7 has little to offer over the Elan II. Its lost features and problems almost outweigh the improvements and certainly do not justify paying twice the price.

The Elan IIe can easily focus on low-contrast (flat/unpatterned) subjects b/c it has the pattern projection of the assist light. The Elan 7 will have focus problems in that situation. There have been some comments as to a dimmer viewfinder or problems focusing, Canon changed the reflectivity of the mirror to give the CMOS sensors a little more light, so you get less, and yet the CMOS AF and metering sensor still offers inferior performance vs the Elan II CCD sensor.

The Elan 7 has the SAME sensor suite as the REBEL 2000 so that Canon can save money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Elan II had a more sensitive suite. The Elan II AF works from EV20 all the way down to EV0 instead of the Elan 7 and Rebel 2000 which only work down to EV1. It is the same with the metering system. The Elan II AF works from EV18 all the way down to EV0 instead of the Elan 7 and Rebel 2000 which do from 18 only down to 1. That's a FULL STOP ladies and gents!

The BP-300 external grip has one extra button over the BP-50…

Similarly Canon hasn't improved the AF on the Elan 7 really… they wouldn't want to be close to the the EOS 3/1V because that would cut into the sales of the high-end cameras. On that note, I see there is still no spot meter on this Elan series "upgrade."

I see the whisper drive system has been improved. Now it's as quiet as the OLD A2e (when its flash isn't zooming) and the original Elan. The Elan IIe is so quiet that any improvement in the film transport system makes no difference because the mirror is what makes the most noise.

The frame rate has been boosted, perhaps a dandy little feature for some rich guy who wants to have a camera that shoots faster than yours, but people who really need the frame rate would be buying an EOS3/1/1V/1n/1RS or an F5/100.

The Elan7e is 15% faster at ECF than an EOS3? Well of course! The Elan7e has 7 focusing points and the EOS 3 has 45! Put the EOS 3 in 11AF point mode and its ECF will beat the hell out of the Elan 7. The Elan 7 is a significant increase over the Elan IIe's ECF speed (I didn't use ECF on my original Elan IIe since it only had 3 AF points).

I do like the black body instead of the ugly half silver on my Elan II.

It looks like Canon has moved the metering mode selection to a button. A BUTTON! There are too many buttons already!!! I chose the Elan IIe over the A2e because it's controls could be accessed in one step (i.e., flip the switch, turn a nob) instead of click the button and then roll the dial around while looking at some display. It is worlds easier to turn a knob or flip a switch to a known position. 

The Elan IIe has THE BEST CONTROL SYSTEM in the EOS line!

I would love it if my EOS 3 had controls like the Elan/Rebel series instead of the hold-down-two-buttons-and-turn-the-wheel-at-the-same-time-and-take-your-eye-away-from-the-viewfinder-to-watch-the-external-readout-instead-being-able-to-confirm-the-setting-by-touching-the-physical-switch. Of course, a button is cheaper for Canon to build (and to be fair, cheaper to weather seal).

There is no AF-assist light? WTF? It's going to strobe the flash instead like a LOWLY REBEL? I know some of you don't like the AF assist, but that is why there was a custom function to disable it on the Elan IIe. Canon simply cut the cost by eliminating the patterned near IR AF light and giving the flash another duty. Not only will the flash consume more battery, it will also be much more disturbing to subjects... especially at night, not to mention it will screw up your night vision and won't allow the camera to focus on contrastless flat subjects like white walls which the Elan II can focus on.

Is the Elan7e any better built than the Elan II? Not really. Canon seems suddenly to be into saving on costs and building their equiptment to sell to a particular market share while not infringing on the sales of other equiptment in their line.

Is it weatherproofed? Of course it is not. These features would cut into high-end sales! Knowing this, why am I griping? Maybe I should be nice for a moment…

the Elan 7e does have a dedicated DOF preview button…

it is slightly smaller (doesn't work for my big hands) and a whole massive super duper 15 grams (NOTHING) lighter than Elan IIe.

The Rebel 2000 became lighter and more compact than its predecessors with SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVED FEATURES! While the Elan7e will certainly appears to beat the N80 hands down (IMHO, the ElanIIe also beat the tar out of the N80), I see little reason for anyone to upgrade to the Elan7e from an Elan IIe.

If they are going to spend more money over the Elan II, they should probably buy an EOS3. This Elan series "upgrade" release is as disappointing to me as the release of the EOS 1V vs the 3 (though I suppose the 1v whups the daylights out of the 1n). With an used Elan IIe going for less than $200 on ebay, there is no reason for someone to waste money on a cheapie Rebel 2000; there is certainly no reason to spend $400+ on an Elan 7e when you can buy two Elan IIe's. Save your money and avoid the faux "upgraded" Elan 7 which in many ways inferior to its predacessor. Spend your money on an Elan II and buy more lenses or film instead or buy a second body! 

EOS 3
Top gear, eye control

可更換對焦屏.45點對焦點(可切換成11點及連動點測).1V該有滴功能EOS3也都有

假如EOS3能找到品項好的當然是首選，但是我當初在找時大都年代久遠、品項不佳，小毛病也滿多的。

Has collection value, can last longer than cheaper model but failure rate is high.

Plastic shell? Even 50E has metallic top and front cover!

Sinar P2

The Ultimate camera make by Swiss.

Shall I consider medium format or even large format camera? No, they are too heavy and inconvenient, if have money buy better EOS body and EF lenses instead. Need super high resolution, buy Linhof 617s III and Sinar P2.

4"x5" format - Size is 15 times bigger than 35mm but also expensive and labor intensive.

Sinar looks better than Linhof and others

Format
Width
Length
Area
Times
135
24
36
864

6x6
60
60
3600
4
6x7
60
70
4200
5
6x9
60
90
5400
6
612
60
120
7200
8
617
60
170
10200
12
4x5
96
121
11616
13
8x10
196
246
48216
56
7x17
177
431
76287
88

IF EOS-1Ds can be mounted on a Sinar P2, then 5DII, 7D and even 500D is possible?

http://studiotoolsystem.com/products.shtml

Shenhao TFC617A
Price not much lower and wooden body can not last long, not fire and water resistant.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=51441

Shenhao TFC617A is indeed the way to go. or Ebony 617S if you're willing to spend 7 grands and wait for 3 months. These cameras have firm zero detents and can be stored in a case (like the f.64 bag I use) with a lens fitted. all you need to do is to set it up on a tripod, focusing on the ground glass, flip it down and attach the back, and shoot. 

No need to worry about swing/tilt zero positions as they're all held by the zero detents, unless you want to adjust them for the scene. it's not slower than my Horseman sw612 camera when I use it on the tripod. For a negative as big as 6x12 or even 6x17, you want to carefully place your GND and hood and precisely frame every image.

万多元的价格，比135菲林多12倍的画幅，比5DII和7D更便宜。PTB617 is enough for me, the light weight is important and being portable is a must for travelling.

Easier to reach the producer at Shanghai? Also cheaper transportation.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/shen-hao-6x17.html

Art Panorama 6x17 back made by Shen Hao:

One interesting point is the size of the image itself. Every roll film format I have used has rounded up the actual size of the image to get its format "name", so 6x6 was actually more like 56mmx56mm, 6x12 was around the 56mmx110mm mark on the Horseman and from what I can gather the Fuji/Linhof 6x17 cameras offer an image size of 56mmx168mm - you get the picture? So why then does this 6x17 film back give "longer" images? An image 178mm long to be exact!

Linhof Technorama 617s III

Linhof 617s III is very heavy and expensive. However, according to Zhao Jia(赵嘉）, it is the toughest 617 camera. Use 120 film mean it can be bought and process in many parts of the world and HK, good for travelling. Film size is 3 times of 6x6 and 12 times of 135 film.

It can take handheld photos, though I would rather use 135 cameras to do that.

The lenses are the biggest compare with 135 and medium format lenses, because the lenses are for 8x10 and the film is 3 times larger than 6x6, picture quality is the best.

Digital is much more efficient than film, photo taking in film is for art and fun. Use ISO 100 film only like Reala or RDP III! 

Large format camera can use data back and 4x5, 617 have bigger resolution than 35 sensor in area.

Cannot tilt.

Can shift:

http://www.linhof.de/technorama-shift_e.html

Can take architecture photo:

"The elongated 6x17 cm format with its 3 : 1 aspect ratio is particularly suitable for sectional enlargements from vertical images. Architectural views without converging lines, shot from street level, can be obtained by cutting off any unwanted foreground matter in the final print."

不同的画幅比例给人的视觉感觉是不同的，1：3更适合人眼的生理结构。（眼科医生告诉我们，人眼的横向视角超过纵向视角大约30°）1：3比例的照片看起来更舒服，视觉感受更强烈。

6X17cm几乎是6X6cm画幅面积的三倍！拓展了横向视角压抑纵向视角形成全景的效果。横向汲取了5X7 画幅的优异影像质量；纵向经过遮幅使画面更充实、饱满。大画幅的影像质量与中画幅卷片式胶卷的便利，舒适性在林好夫617 S Ⅲ上得到完美结合。20年前林好夫推出了617的原型机。原创的设计思想广受青睐并引人效法。

林好夫精密的机械加工是好照片的保证。诸如：获得最佳胶片平整的压铸机身，结实可靠的输片机构，顺畅且阻尼到位的精密螺纹调焦机构以及带快门线螺纹的柔性快门释放钮使摄影真正变成享受。

Fotoman 617  
Shenzhen made 617, 617 is too heavy and has imgae distortion, but the shift adapter can compensate that. Wait for a tilt adapter.

Can use 8x10 lenses so they can be shared with P2 and P3. HK is close to its SZ based factory and HQ.

Can buy totally new one but . . . the company was bankrupted.

Horseman 617

Compatible with Linhof. Once I thought of buying a Xpan II,. Also  is just too heavy.

Can shift at least.

Not as tough and cool as Technorama

Seitz
Too heavy, too expensive. Dynamic range not comparable with film.

Red One Epic
Epic Brains will record a data-rate of 225 MB/s. The sensor sizes will be Super 35, 135 film, 645 (medium format), and 617, equivalent to the Linhof Technorama camera (the 617 will record a data-rate of 500 MB/s). Horizontal resolutions will range from 5K to 28K (the latter is the equivalent of 261 megapixels) and could be printed onto 70mm IMAX 15/70 without the need for the IMAX Digital Media Remastering (DMR).

Too Expensive and heavy, dynamic range not comparable with film.

Hy6
Developed by Rolleiflex old founder?

You want high resolution from 120 format but cheap 120 cameras cannot assure correct focus, then high resolution cannot be guaranteed。 Discontinued

Rolleiflex 6008AF
SL66 and other manual focusing camera is too old and need too many manual work, 6008AF can share lenses with Hy6 and have many choices, much more convenient to use. However instead of buying 6008AF, why not go directly for Hy6?
Rolleiflex Hy6The Hy6 (equivalent to Sinar Hy6 and Leaf AFi) is technically an evolutional development of the famous Rolleiflex 6008AF concept, while the outer design and the user interface should be called a more revolutionary development. Actually, all typical 6008AF functions are there. An improvement is the new focus detector (now a cross CCD) and the infrared light to focus under difficult lighting conditions. Also new is the battery: it's now a widely available Lithium-ion brick that can be recharged without risking memory-effects. The model I found in the Hy6 was from Varta and looked like a camcorder battery

The Sinar Hy6 is currently the only medium format AF camera that not only covers the usual 6x4.5 format, but also the classic 6x6 format and thereby has still room for even larger CCDs.
With its central shutter and a shutter speed of only 1/1000 second, it is also the fastest camera in its class.

Hy6 on Sinar Homepage

I shall save money on other camera to buy Hy6.

CFV-39 for Hassy 503CW?
SL66
SL66 is very old and too expensive, the price can buy me a TS-E lens or 6008AF. TS-E lens has much more portability and P2/p3 have much more flexibilty and toughness. 

However, it does not support any data back, it is a pity, photo quality will not be much better than Seagull 4A-103.

Bessa III
Can handheld with speed down to 1/2 sec due to rangefinder shutter logic.
60X70 is bigger than 24X36 by almost 5 times (4.8).

http://mainlinephoto.wordpress.com/2009/07/27/bessa-iii-review-by-ed-dale/

You might get the feeling that I’m pretty chuffed with the Bessa III and you would be right. The best camera is the one you have with you and the ability to have the Bessa III around all the time to capture a decisive moment in Medium Format is exciting.

Negatives – you can’t change the lens and I would not mind that extra half a stop But as i said, the Rolls Royce shutter mechanism MORE than makes up for this.
GW690 III/Zess Ikon Super Ikonta C
Flatness of film is a big problem.

6X9 is not much bigger than Seagull's 6x6 and range finder is not much better than TLR in focusing, specially in dark. 

http://www.photokb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/photo-medium-format/2569/Modern-6x9-Rangefinders

You will need a light meter, these cameras are absolutely mechanic. The Mamiya 7 has a much better grip (having big palms helps much if you want to handhold these Fuji beasts, but these are incredibly light for their size).

Personally, I feel somewhat 'different' when I use my Fuji compared to my Canon 1v (which plays the role of the light meter). Strangely enough, the Fujis seem subjectively to be nearly the same size as my 1v, and I say this is a great success - these cameras just don't feel big/heavy when you start using it.

Digital Cameras
TX10
Sony TX10 is tough enough, much smaller in size, has much better image quality, but it has no GPS, compass and altimeter, and its former member TX5 has the problem that the skin of the casing can be easily peeled off. No GPS, but consider in flight photographing, a small GPS recorder is better when placing in the rim of the window to collect GPS signal.

TS1
TS1 can do what I want to do with G10 (light weight, high quality) plus HD video. 500D + 85mm must be wonderful for portrait. 500D + 18-55mm IS is good for landscape so all my needs can be met.

Lots of scenes, pinhole mode is good, starry night mode can use 15-60 seconds shutter.

HKD 6000 can take 4000 photo of films (reala) , but digital can save lots of time.

KM A200
Fast IR photo

Canon Powershot G10
I believe G10 can take over most cheap lenses, and it has f/2.8 aperture and high sensibility compare with other DCs. Many functions.

G10 is good but not as good as 500D, G10 is light but 500D not too heavy. G10 has the AV wheel but I found that I can not use it with one hand but with the 500D I can adjust AV with one hand. 

One thing G10 has the distinctive advantage is that I can quietly take picture inside a vehicle with a polarizer. DSLR is just too noisy and aggressive. Its dials are also very convenient and intuitive, even compare with 500D and NEX5, it is still more user-friendly.

- Alternatives -
Pro90IS
Lens is good but sensor too old, IR function can be replaced by G10 and 500D.

Sony TX5
Excellent for swimming, panorama in one take.

Casio Exilim M1
Smallest camera, can play MP3. With waterproof case.

Sony Systems
Sony A55V
Sony Alpha DT  18-55mm F3.5-5.6   SAM (銳利度)優秀，拜兩枚非球面鏡及一枚ED鏡所賜

Very light

16-50mm SSM will be good to NEX too

http://www.dcfever.com/lens/readreviews.php?id=466

Can be used on NEX due to the SAM while the 18-250 cannot.

Flare and ghosting- Extremely good control here and one of the best in the Sony lineup.  The new and old lenses perform about the same at controlling ghosting, veiling glare and flare.  There are some small green blobs or arcs depending on aperture, angle from light source and zoom length.

http://kurtmunger.com/sony_dt_18_55mm_f_3_5_5_6_samid140.html

Minolta Alpha 7
In terms of features, it is the best film camera ever:

http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=857041&p=1

"135單眼相機發展至此，實在是登峰造極之作了"

http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=620091&r=162&p=5#

"2001年，Minolta 的 Dynax 7，一舉囊括三項國際大獎︰
EISA (European Imaging and Sound Camera of the Year) 最佳歐洲相機大獎、
TIPA (Technical Image Press Association) 最佳單眼相機大獎、
Japan Camera Press Club頒發的Camera Grand Prix。"

Strength:
Strong enough since taking film is now rare
The omnipotent rear LCD display can show depth of  field and honeycomb exposure, useful for film photo taking
Stylish
Data recording do not need data back

Weakness:
No Titanium body: For that like A9Ti, I have the FM2/T already.
Not Waterproof: 1V should be better, instead I will use TX5 for that purpose.
Weaker data recording: With Nikon F6, date and exposure can be printed on film gap and the data can be output to a CF card, Alpha-7 use Smart Media card which is obsolete, can print only limited data. However, I need to input data by myself, then no difference from Alpha-7.
Rubber will become sticky, 橡膠老化: "Alpha-7 有個大缺點, 他背後的漆會老化..黏黏的". Dpreview provided a solution to remove sticky rubber: "This is what I would do if it was MY camera, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone else though as brake fluid is nasty stuff, dissolves paint, toxic etc. Mask off around the rubber, then, wearing hand protection, rub the rubber with a cloth that has a small amount of brake fluid on it, not enough to drip or run. Work at it hard until the rubber changes consistency then leave it for an hour and clean off with a cloth and a small amount of either white spirit/turps/alcohol/meths."

Minolta Alpha 5
Announced: 2001-05-30

Seems to has serious out-focus problem on my machine, using the same 85mm lens, the focus is much more accurate on my Nex-5 than on Alpha-5. Decision: throw away (2011-04-22).

Similar problem seems also occur on Canon 50E, but for Nikon FM2? Will the focusing much better?

Though the tone looks good.

http://www3.xitek.com/bingqiku/minolta/afbody/five/dynax5.htm

"日本Minolta公司于2001年5月30日推出新型的Dynax 5，北美型号为Maxxum 5，而亚洲地区型号是α Sweet II。正式出售时间为6月下旬，月产量为4万台。

由于受到市场的欢迎，Minolta于2002年2月4日又发布了α-Sweet II(Dynax 5)黑色版，预计发售时间为3月份，月产量还是4万台。

(这是截止至2002年2月4日前的世界上最小最轻的AF SLR。)

厂家推荐价格：

机身：67,000日圆

机身+AF 28-80/3.5-5.6D：94,000日圆

BP-200电池手柄：6,000日圆

Dynax 5的主要特色是：

在同类产品中，它的AF速度是最快的

7点AF系统，中心点为十字交叉传感器，有焦点预测AF和合焦点指示，采用高速微芯片，AF算法经过调整，也修改了CCD控制，AF速度是Dynax 505si Super的3倍，在同类产品中是最快的(配合50mm镜头，截止至2001年5月15日)。

功能强大，机身最小和最轻的SLR(截止至2002年2月4日)

最高快门速度达1/4000s，闪光同步速度为1/125s，连续过片速度为3pfs。

其他特色

对焦屏采用在高档机型中使用的球面型，使取景更为明亮；

眼启动AF；

景深预视；

14分区蜂巢式测光和点测光，带模拟EV显示；

曝光补偿、自动包围曝光和多重曝光；

ADI闪光测光(4分区)；

高速闪光同步(HSS)可达1/4000s；

无线/遥控离机TTL闪光；

14种用户自选功能；

金属镜头卡口；

电子蜂鸣器声响提示。"

Many functions, can use Alpha lenses.

Can be used as light meter for manual cameras.

- Alternatives -
Sony Alpha 550
http://www.photozone.de/dslr_reviews/487_sonydslra550?start=1

"The Sony A550 comes with an anti-static coating and a CCD shift mechanism to prevent dust and debris on the sensor. Unfortunately, this CCD shift mechanism is primarily a build-in image stabilizer and not an integrated sensor cleaning unit. During outdoor activities I had to clean the sensor almost every day. Unluckily Sony's dust removal unit is still one of the unreliable anti-dust systems out there and you shouldn't go without one of the external cleaning solutions like e.g. the Arctic Butterfly."

Minolta Alpha 7D
Strength: 

Time interval photography, Minolta color of blue sky.

Weakness: 

Too bad 7D has the serious fault of Fist Black Frame issue, which make its advantage useless, because using time interval, I need to take tons of photos to create video, and if buy a second hand 7D, the chance is big that it is near the breakdown point, if I use the intervalometer function, the camera will certainly break down. Use Nikon for that purpose, they have cameras which can do the same thing.

http://www.dyxum.com/columns/other/First_Black_Frame/First_Black_Frame.asp

'Following the repair manual we can see that repair procedure contains the following: "When replacing the AF charge baseplate assy against Error 58, please replace the shutter assy with it"
Apparently this is not a cheap fix which is something that may influence decisions of sending faulty cameras to service for many 7D